Ground rules and tools for May
May 03, 2007
BY CLIFF KNEZEK -
WHAT WOULD TASTE
BETTER THAN SUMMER SQUASH GROWN IN YOUR OWN
During early times in
Today, there is tremendous genetic variation in size, shape,
color and taste of the fruit that is grown for fresh market sales and home use
along with the hard-shelled winter squashes.
Within the general three types of squash for home use, there
are many yellow, green and scallop varieties from which to choose. Some of the
best yellow straightneck varieties include Burpee's butterstick, Dixie,
multipik, golden girl, goldbar, lemon drop L, General Patton, gold spike,
PS-391, smoothie and sun drops. The better yellow crookneck varieties are early
golden, goldie, supersett, Meigs, sunrise, goldslice, medallion, prelude II and
liberater III.
The best green zucchini varieties include president,
enterprise, goldrush (a yellow zucchini), senator, tigress and independence II.
And lastly are the scallop type squashes such as sunburst,
white bush and Peter Pan. All varieties are unique and good!
FOLLOW MOTHER NATURE
To have a successful squash crop, follow Mother Nature's
guidelines. You will need to know your local frost dates, which govern your
planting times for summer squash. Generally in this area, the last frost date
is about Feb. 10. One to four weeks after the frost-free date is the best time
to start planting squash.
A good soil with a sunny location and good drainage and
subsurface drainage is necessary. Summer squash grows best in soil with a pH of
6.0 to 7.5. Optimum growing conditions are warm to moderate air temperatures of
60 to 80 degrees.
IN OR OUT
Summer squash can be
grown from seed or plants. Seed planting can be done indoors (if you are
pushing Mother Nature to plant early) or outdoors. Outdoor planting seeds
sprout easily in sandy or organic soil. If the soil is heavy with a high silt
or clay content, the seeds should be covered only 2 to 3 times their diameter.
Generally plant seeds to a depth of 1/2 to 1 inch using rows
about 36 to 60 inches apart.
Choice of beds
Summer squash can be grown in raised beds or garden plots.
The raised bed or growing bed is the basic unit of an intensive garden. This
bed system allows the gardener to concentrate soil preparation in small areas.
Beds should be 3 to 4 feet wide and as long as desired. Working from either
side of the bed will reduce soil compaction caused by walking on the bed.
The key to successful intensive gardening is soil
preparation. Since plants will be growing close together, plants should have
adequate nutrients and water. A deep fertile soil, rich in organic matter and
humus, will hold extra nutrients. These intensive raised beds are extra work
but are excellent due to the drainage.
Garden plots or planting beds should be at least 3 by 9
feet. Rows should be divided in short segments to prevent planting too much of
the plant at one time. Longer rows would produce sufficient squash to can or
freeze.
To prepare a hill for squash for intensive gardening, dig a
hole about 18 inches deep and wide. Put 3 to 4 inches of compost or well-rotted
cow manure in the bottom of the hole, then fill the hole with a mixture of
three parts soil (use the soil from the hole) and one part compost or cow
manure forming a mound about 4 inches high.
For less intensive gardening, plant squash on a raised,
mulched bed tilled 6 inches deep.
Space hills for bush squash 4 to 5 feet apart; semi-bush squash about 5 to 6 feet apart; and vine squash about 10 feet apart. When plants start to bloom or crawl along the ground, scatter 1/3 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer around each plant and mulch with 6 inches of straw or hay.
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PHOTO BY LESA BOWERS/VICTORIA COUNTY MASTER
GARDENER INTERN As squash vines begin to grow, male and
female yellow flowers appear on the same vine. The flower in the forefront is
the male flower created only to ensure pollination. These are easily
identified by straight stems. Female flowers have swollen stems or ovules
just behind the blossom. |
POLLINATION
As the squash vine begins to grow, male and female yellow
flowers appear on the same vine. The male flowers (straight stems) are created
only to ensure pollination. Female flowers (swollen stems) are usually produced
later which delays fruit setting and many times worries gardeners as to
"Why hasn't my squash set fruit?"
Bees are the main method of pollination. If there are no bees present, the flowers won't get pollinated. It's a tedious task, but in order to help pollination, some gardeners remove a male flower and use it to rub it into and hand pollinate the female flower.
IRRIGATION
Without adequate rain, it is necessary to water regularly.
Don't let the plant wilt for long periods of time or poor fruit quality will result.
Drip irrigation or down-the-row watering is best. If sprinkling, water only
early morning as water on the leaves concentrate the sun's rays and can cause
scorching of the leaves and excessive wetting hours in late evening can result
in diseases.
When to water is not determined by whether the top 1 to 2
inches of soil is dry, but whether the soil is dry at the depth of the growing
roots. Summer squash roots may grow to the depth of 6 to 18 inches.
Mulching with leaves and grass around the plants will
minimize irrigation and produce higher quality, better tasting squash.
HARVESTING
The average harvest season for squash lasts about 40 days after about 40 days of initial growth. The normal expected yield from three to five hills of any one variety should be sufficient for a family of four. Summer squash should be harvested while their skins are tender and before seeds get hard. Pick yellow straightneck or crookneck squash when they are 4 to 6 inches long and zucchini when they are 6 to 8 inches long. For best quality, squash needs to be picked daily - with the older, mature squash removed to insure continuous new flower and squash production.
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WHAT TO DO IN YOUR
GARDEN IN MAY May 03, 2007 *Cut off old blossoms on spring flowering annuals to
prolong the flowering season. *Continue to fertilize roses every four to six weeks with
small amounts of a balanced fertilizer. *Prune climbing roses after their spring bloom season. *Allow foliage of spring flowering bulbs to mature and
yellow before removing. *Replace or replenish mulch materials in flowerbeds and
shrub borders to conserve moisture and reduce weed growth. *Plant caladium tubers, petunias, impatiens, begonias and
torenias in shady areas. *There is still time to sow directly into the soil seeds of sunflower, zinnia, morning glory, portulaca, marigold, cosmos, periwinkle and gourds. Achimenes, cannas, dahlias and other summer flowering bulbs can also be planted in May. |
The
Gardeners' Dirt is written by members of the Victoria County Master Gardener
Association, an educational outreach of