Gardeners know all
the best dirt
Homemade or local soil
additives can be applied to maintain healthy soil
March
25, 2004
Gardeners not only know the best dirt, they are sometimes known to add to
it. Dirt, or soil, is the heart of your garden. Some of us are blessed with
good soil. The rest of us must take what we have and use soil amendments to
make a balanced, productive growing medium.
The past few articles in this column discussed turfgrasses
and the need to test soil samples before planting, fertilizing - or
over-fertilizing. Soil management in garden beds is no exception to that
practice and, in fact, soil will be more productive when proper amendments, if
needed, are added to it.
The most desirable garden soil is a loose, sandy loam containing 5 percent
to 10 percent organic matter with about 50% percent pore space, made up of air,
water and microorganisms. The optimum pH measurement is between 6.0 and 7.5.
This range is best for most garden plants. This ideal soil will hold water for
plants to use, but will not stay saturated if it rains heavily because it
drains well.
However, much of the soil in the
One of the best soil additives is homemade. When weeds and spent plants are
pulled from your garden and beds, place this green and dried material in a
compost bin or tumbler. Grass clippings, leaves, and pruned material should be
added, as well as vegetable and fruit peelings, coffee grounds and other kitchen
waste, except meat scraps.
If you have access to livestock manure, this can be added to make good, rich
compost. Use not more than 25 percent horse or cow manure or 10 percent chicken
manure.
To get the microorganisms working in the beginning, you can purchase a
commercial inoculant, or just add a few shovels of
garden soil. The microorganisms are readily abundant in rich garden soil. When
this material is kept damp and turned, it will soon decay into loose, friable
compost.
Gardeners also know where to find the good dirt. The rotted hay and manure
from cow pens, or an area in the pasture where cattle have been fed, is an
excellent soil amendment. However, first determine if the pasture or hay being
fed has been sprayed with a herbicide containing picloram. This chemical remains in the hay and even passes
through to the manure. Even when decomposed, it is still capable of affecting
broad-leaf garden plants for six to 12 months after application.
There are several gins in the area, and they produce cottonseed hulls as
waste. These are relatively high in nitrogen and have an acid pH, so there is
the added benefit of lowering the pH of alkaline soil. This material is often
piled and partially decomposed when you get it. Till in this good organic
matter or use the dry hulls as mulch.
We are fortunate to be close to the mushroom farm between Shiner and
Gonzales. They use a growing medium of wheat straw, poultry waste, cottonseed
oil and hulls, peat moss and urea. After several uses it is discarded and sold
for a very reasonable price. They will load a pickup bed or trailer. It is
necessary to take a tarp to cover your load to prevent the loose material from
blowing out.
It will take several seasons of adding and tilling to get your soil in
optimum condition. Soil with good texture is easier to work, wet or dry. The
greatest benefit is providing your plants with a soil that is aerated and will
hold and release nutrients and moisture over a long period of time.
So ... check your type of soil and know your dirt. Amendments as described are readily available in this area. There is every reason for you to be "in the know" in the Gardeners' Dirt.