Ground
rules and tools for June
June 3, 2004
We have now transitioned into the hotter months, and it will only get more intense.
We have had quite a bit of rain in the past few weeks, but as we settle into a
more normal pattern, be aware that lawns require about 1 inch of rain - or
watering - per week. For the highest quality lawn, mowing should be done at
least once a week - and do be careful not to scalp the lawn.
Remember that turf should be watered in the early morning hours and not late
in the evening. Over-watering and over-fertilizing may make your turf more
susceptible to disease and chinch bugs.
Although June is a good month to fertilize your lawn, rather than following
a calendar or other random method to plan your lawn fertilization, get and
follow a soil test. Remember during the hot summer months, do
not push turf with too much fertilizer or it will be more prone to
drought stress and pest infestations. It's better to apply less than the
recommended rate than too much.
Keep grass from growing near the base of trees, vines and bushes, as it is a
major competitor for water and nutrients. Also be careful when weed-eating that
you don't damage the trunks of your trees or bushes. This can lead to a slow
but sure death. Putting mulch around the base of trees is the best practice as it
alleviates using string trimmers around trees and shrubs and prevents the
competition for essential water and nutrients.
If you have mulched your flowerbeds and around your trees or shrubs, you
should be seeing the results of advance planning - and the fact that you do not
have to water as much and that weeds are less of a problem. Most wood mulches
should be applied and kept at a depth of a minimum of 2 inches. However, the
coarser the material, the deeper the mulch should be. Two inches of shredded hardwood
mulch has the same effect as 4 inches of Bermuda grass or similar hay.
With the heat coming on, some annuals are holding up well and others are
beginning to fade. Great summer flowers include impatiens, which love shade and
water, cleome, portulaca, purslane
and periwinkle. With a little mulch and moderate amount of watering, these old
"standbys" will give color the remainder of the growing season.
Heat tolerant perennials for this area include canna,
esperanza, firebush, lantana, various gingers, hibiscus and the
salvias. If you don't have any hibiscus, they can still be planted. In
particular, container-grown hibiscus can be planted from spring through early
fall, although avoiding the hot, dry months may show better results. Remember
as a general rule to fertilize flowering plants like bougainvillea and hibiscus
more than typical turf or trees, as continued flowering demands more nutrients.
Use a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 - or better yet, follow recommendations
from a soil test, which indicates nutrient levels in the soil.
Annual and perennial flowers can start to get floppy or leggy about this
time of the season. Wait until they have completed a flush of blooms. Then use
shears to cut them back by about a third. This will encourage growth and more
flower buds. Repeat this process through the summer to keep them beautiful and
bring on more cycles of blooming. Fertilize lightly after each shearing.
It is also time to trim back chrysanthemums and other fall blooming
perennials to help form a bushier plant in time for fall bloom. Many shrubs may
also be lightly pruned now to take on a desired shape.
Unless a plant is meant to grow in a bog, be careful not to over-water. Many
of our southern plants are able to take the saunas of summer as long as their
roots are moist, but well aerated. Soggy soil combined with hot weather is the
kiss of death for many plants. Give them a good soaking and then allow the soil
to dry - and oxygen to enter - before watering again.
Although we have not seen webworms in
If you've noticed leaves falling from your oak trees, it is probably due to
the diseases anthracnose or rust - or both. Too much rain through mid-May this
year allowed the foliar diseases to build up. This is likely over for now and
there is no need to treat, but if conditions stay dry, then additional
irrigation to trees may be helpful to compensate for foliage losses.
Take a good look at your landscape during these hot summer months. What
needs more water than normal? What grows too fast? How can it be better
arranged, and so on...? When the cooler weather comes, you will be ready to
move some plants that might perform better in a different place. Sometimes
mistakes are made in landscape plans, and you can readily tell if plants are
growing well and are "happy" - or need to be relocated.
If you have you been thinking about building or installing some landscape items, now would be a good time to consider trellises,
arbors and the like. How about adding that flagstone or gravel walkway through
your garden? If you enjoy the outdoors as I do, how about a bench placed in a
garden area where you can enjoy the evening breeze and catch up on some reading
- or just enjoy a relished, quiet moment?
Finally, don't forget about caring for yourself or the family gardener.
During these months of intense heat, most gardening should be done in the early
morning hours or late evening when it is cool. Be sure and drink plenty of
water. Too many people have failed to heed this warning and suffered from
dehydration while working outdoors in the summer heat. If you get the garden
prepared, planted and mulched properly, your summer tasks will be much easier.
Follow these suggested gardening rules and tools - and you and your garden will be "happier" and maybe even cooler in the hot months ahead.